Moccasin



Feb. 19 1924. "1,484,285

D. B. ABBOTT MO C CA S'IN Fi ed se 't. v. 1922 Patented Feb 19, 1924.

' DONALD B. ABBOTT,

F AUBURN, MAINE.

MOCCASIN.

Application filed September 7, 1922. Serial No. 586,569.

T 0 all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, DONALD B. Anno'r'r, a citizen of the United States, and a resident 'in the city of Auburn, county of Androscoggin, and State of Maine, and doing business at number 98 LakeStreet, in said city,

have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Moccasins, of which the following is a specification, reference being had to the accompanying drawings.

It is the purpose of this invention to improve the fit and appearance of the moccasin type of footwear and to provide a bandagelike support under the arch of the foot of the wearer by the new method of cutting and stitching thestock of the moccasin under the instep section of the foot and withut the employement of any hard or stiff members, and to accomplishthis while retaining all the valuable features of the true moccasin construction.

To those familiar with the manufacture of true moccasinsit is well known that their construction requires the stock, after being cut and partially stitched, to be pulled along the bottom of the last over which they are formed, and upwardly at the sides and toe instead of over the top of the last and then downwardly as in the construction of ordinary shoes. This necessary procedure in the construction of the true mocassin causes the material of which they are made to span the cavity on the under side of the last at the instep section, in other words at the arch of the foot of the wearer between the heel and the ball, and makes it practically impossible to so cut and sew the parts together that the material will hug into the instep cavity notwithstanding the longitudinal and upward strains to which the material is subjected during the so-called lasting operations.

By my invention the parts are so cut that when suitably stitched they inevitably as sume the desired contour resulting in a snug fit, or as I call it, bandage efiect, beneath and about the instep.

Referring to the drawings, it is to be noted that they are not intended as patterns from which to cut the stock since the preference of individual manufacturers and the contour of different lasts may vary.

Fig. 1 represents a plan view shown flat of the vamp of the moccasin out according to this invention but before sewing- Fig. 2 represents a plan view of the same vamp after sewing.

Fig. 3 represents a side longitudinal elevation view of that which'is shown in Fig. 2.

Fig. 4: represents a vamp in juxtaposition to the quarters but before sewing.

Fig- 5 represents the same vamp and' quarters as in Fig. 4 after sewing together.

Fig. 6 represents an elevation of a completed moccasin showing the archedcontour under the instep. I

In the drawings the shown in Fig. 1, thatis to say, a generally V shaped piece a; is cut out from the central rear part of the vamp and immediately forvamp H is cut as ward thereof a generally triangular shaped piece a w is removed, the two openings thus formed intersecting or running into each other as shown. The vamp is then sewed along the lines 9 g to the quarters as shown in Fig. 5. The cuts, or openings in the vamp are then closed as shown best in Fig. 2, A being brought to B, C being brought to D and E being brought to F. This results in that shown in plan in Fig. 2 and in elevation in Fig. 3. The quarters I, I, are then.

stitched up the heel along the lines J, a back stay being added if desired.

The peculiar form of the cut in the vamp H resulting in the removal of the two pieces m and w m (as shown in Fig. 1) will, when the opposed edges of these cuts are stitched together, result in the vamp being dished or made scoop shaped at its rear part so that it will hug up snugly under the instep notwithstanding the longitudinal and upward pull along the bottom of the last as shown in Fig. 6.

It will be observed that in the preferred construction illustrated in Figure 1 the open portions of the blank are in that part of the blank which forms the under side of the vamp of the moccasin and that the scam in the underside of the vamp as illustrated is T-shaped, as illustrated in Figure 2 it being essential that one of the seams be dispose longitudinally of the vamp while the other runs crosswise thereof. It is understood, of course, that the seam need not be absolutely T-shaped as illustrated in Figure 2. Theseams so draw the material forwardly and inwardly as to cause the waist of the moccasin when lasted, to snugly fit the last and when worn, the arch of the foot. In the preferred construction shown in Figure 1 it will be observed the opening at w is tapered and extends from the rear edge of the blank toward the forward portion or ball portion of the blank, i. e., that portion which in use lies under the ball of the foot, In this'construction the sides or edges of the opening are of substantially the same lengths so that when the blank is closed the seam will be properly formed. The triangular opening shown at a9 a2 is of such shape that two of its sides together substantially equal in length the third side of said opening so that the parts may be properly closed to form the seam whose outline is illustrated in Figure 2.

As. before stated the drawings are largely diagrammatic and while I prefer to give to the openings the shapes shown and the dimensions specified, due regard should be given to the fact that the leather is somewhat elastic and may be stretched or C0111? pressed to some extent to give proper shape to the seam and to the completed shoe.

By the described construction I obtainbetter fit,better appearance and real bandage-like arch support for the instep with out any stiff or arbitrarily inserted members and at the same time retain all the well known and highly desirable features of the realmoccasin construction.

I claim- 1. A moccasin, the vamp portion of which on its under side has a seam extending longitudinally of the vamp from its rear edge towards the ball portion of the vamp and another seam in front of that first mentioned which extends cross-wise of the vamp.

2. r moccasin, the vamp portion otwhich has a seam running longitudinally and forwardly from its rear portion on its underside and another seam running crosswise of the vamp forward of the first mentioned scam, the seam having so drawn the material forwardly and inwardly as to cause the waist of the moccasin, when lasted, to snugly fit the last and when worn, the arch of the foot.

A moccasin vamp having in its under side a seam of general T-shape extending from the rear edge of the near the ball portion of the vamp.

a. A blank for the vamp portion of a mccasin having an open portion in the rear part of its under side wider'at. its outer than at its inner end and havingadjacent said first mentioned opening an open por tion which is wider at its front than at its rear end.

5'. A blank for a moccasin vamp havinga tapered open portionin the rearpa-rt ofiits vamp to a, point' under side extending toward the balljportion of the blank andwhich has two Sides of substantially the same length, said blank having also an open portion of general triangular shape forward of the first mentioned openportion, two of whose sides to? gether substantially equal in length the third side of said triangular opening.

Executed this 6th day of September, 1922.

DONALD E. ABBOTT. 

